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This rugged, mostly undeveloped park a little west of Woodside is perfect for an Autumn heatwave.  The trails are shady and wide enough for jog strollers, and the slopes are not too extreme.  We were a little short for time on this visit and so just did the short loop that leaves from the car park and threads over the hill and back to the equestrian arena.  The Monkey and his chums loved the hike and walked the whole way: they looked for horse poop, sticks and stones, and examined all the drainage pipes along the way.

Look Mom! Horse Poop!

The Folger Stables, located just near the car park, are an added bonus.  They are spectacular, luxurious, circa-1900 stables, have been beautifully restored and were even recently listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  The horses there live better than I do. It’s certainly worth nosing around: the kids love checking out the horses (all have their names on their stalls) and the adults can marvel at the extravagance.

Toilets in the car park – but no other amenities.

The view from Borel Hill

Want a hike with great views that the kids can also do? Then this one’s for you. 

We had guests in town and wanted to give them a taste of the local countryside and a sense of the peninsula’s geography, so we headed up to the Russian Ridge Preserve off Skyline Boulevard.  It was wonderfully sunny, the land was that beautiful late summer mix of green and gold, the turkey vultures circled overhead, and we could see for miles across the bay.

We chose a shortish route that was interesting for the adults but allowed the kids plenty of opportunity to get out and walk. From the Vista Point parking area we took the trail up Borel Hill which has the most fabulous views, before heading along the Ancient Oaks Trail for about a mile and then cutting back across the ridge to our starting spot. The entire route was about 2 miles, and a little hilly–perfect for our nearly three year old to walk himself.  We’re a bit worried about the future, however, as he insisted on doing the whole loop with his (pretend) cell phone in hand, just in case one of his friends called.

Wouldn't want to miss a call

Running in the surf

Venice Beach, Half Moon Bay. It’s one of our all-time favorite outdoors spots to take the boys. And when it’s as sunny as it was this weekend, you just can’t beat it.  It’s a long, glorious, sandy beach with a gentle incline into the sea which is perfect for toddler paddling. In addition, however, it also has a shallow creek running across the beach which is perfect for little ones to play in when the surf is up. Venice Beach is usually fairly empty, and it doesn’t have the picnic and camping areas that make other local beaches so crowded on holidays, but it does have toilets and outdoor showers in the parking lot to clean sandy children off.  Parking is $10 – bring change as there is rarely anyone in the car park kiosk.

The creek at Venice Beach is perfect for even the littlest ones to explore with confidence

Having explored the coast around Jenner, we also wanted to check out the beautiful Russian River area in-land and so hired a rental house (we felt like spoiling ourselves) in an isolated Redwood grove a few miles outside Guerneville. It was heaven: secluded and peaceful, and with no neighbours for our kids to disturb. As we didn’t know the area at all, the plan was to check out a few parks and get a feel for the area and what there was to do and see for outdoors families.

Armstrong Redwood State Preserve

The forests in this area of California are just magnificent and we decided to spend one morning hiking around in them.  We chose the Armstrong Redwood State Preserve, partly because the hiking trails looked good for small children, partly because it contains trees which are more than 1400 years old, and partly because the ‘blurb’ said it offered tree hugging platforms and who could turn that offer down? Well, the tree hugging platforms were closed.  We had to just hug random trees as best we could. But everything else was as advertised.

The commercial beach at Guerneville

We chose a short, mile long trail leaving from the parking lot to do with the boys so we could take our time and let them explore the forest floor. If you park outside the park entrance, its free and you can just walk in and pick up the trail. The path was easy for toddlers to manage, although it offered some fallen trees for climbing and interest, and you could probably use a solid jog stroller. We had the boys in our backpacks some of the way, and encouraged the older one to walk as much as he could/would.

The park was actually a bigger hit with our nearly 3 year old than I would have imagined. He was fascinated by the sheer size of the trees and by what had caused so many of them to fall over.  He also loved running round their large trunks and climbing inside them to investigate.  It was also a beautiful and relaxing walk for mommy and daddy.  We were, however, grateful we had left early in the morning as the park really started to fill up around noon and some of the special, early morning peace was lost.

Guerneville

As the day heated up we were drawn to the river and headed into Guerneville to find a paddling spot. Unfortunately, nearly all of the river banks are part of privately owned residential properties and it is, as we discovered, very difficult to get to the water’s edge.  Someone had recommended we try Guerneville River Park for a pleasant walk along the river bank. Having checked it out, I’d recommend giving it a miss. It’s a strange little park under the large road bridge that crosses the Russian River at Guerneville and has a real ‘hobo’ feel to it.  There even seemed to be someone running a little soup kitchen in the picnic area. The trail itself is very limited and, while one can see the river from the park, there is no access to the water.  Most disappointed, we decided to see if there were any other options.

The Russian River: wherever there are rocks my kids are happy

On the other side of the river, just off Guerneville main street, is a commercial riverfront park. Parking and access to the water are free, but there are large beach huts selling food, ice cream, and drink (including alcohol). The ‘beach’ there is stoney and there is no shade, but it is a beautiful spot and you can get down to the water to paddle and swim.  It’s probably the best option available. But if you do go, take sunscreen and water. And be mindful of the local “colour” — there were more than a few threatening-looking locals roaming the shore, swearing, fighting, openly drinking spirits and smelling strongly of pot.  Our kids were too young to notice, but it might not be the most edifying spectacle for slightly older children. Be warned.

Our toddler loved running around these rocks at Miwok Beach

This summer we spent several weekends exploring this beautiful, but often gloomy, coastline. Before we left, we found it hard to get much useful information about the beaches along the way. Which is a shame for two reasons: the beaches are gorgeous and the beaches are very varied.  Some are sandy, some rocky; some have plentiful, free parking while others charge a fee; and some have child-friendly surf and at others the tide patterns make even paddling a little risky. To save you driving along the coastline filled with anxiety that there is a better beach just around the next headland, I thought I would review our two favourite and, in our view, most toddler-friendly spots.

Miwok Beach

Miwok Beach: A great spot for crawling into the surf

This beautiful, sandy expanse lies just North of Bodega Bay.  The official car park is usually full (it seems to be a favorite surfing spot with the locals) but you can park for free along highway 1 and climb down to the beach.  The beach itself is long and usually feels empty, apart from the driftwood, seaweed and jellyfish that litter the tide line (this all makes it an interesting toddler beach).  Unlike some places along this coast, the beach slopes gently into the surf, making it an excellent spot for paddling when the sun comes out.  Plus, at low tide, there are some great clambering rocks for pre-school age kids.

There are  bathrooms in the official parking lot, but the beach has few other amenities — no cliff top picnic tables, BBQ spots etc

 

Goat Rock Beach

Goat Rock and the site of the old quarry

Every time we visit Goat Rock Beach it’s always cloudy and windy, but I assume the weather there is sometimes nice.  It’s a great beach to explore however.  In addition to the sand and driftwood, there is a seal colony that can easily be viewed from the shore and the remains of the old railway that used to take quarried stone from the Goat Rock headland to the southern end of the beach for transportation by sea.  Goat Rock itself used to be part of the headland until the old quarry was built.  Tracks in the sand are all that remain of this sizable industrial project now, and kids can enjoy playing detective on the beach following the old railway line.

Looking North towards the seal colony

Where the Big Sur meets the Pacific

Since arriving in North Cali I’ve been amazed by the lack of information on local beaches, especially when they are so varied and so beautiful.  On the other hand, it’s been (mostly) fun discovering them for ourselves and working out which are the most suited to toddlers.

The beach at Andrew Molera State Park, where the Big Sur meets the Pacific, is one of our favourites.  It’s a long and super clean sandy beach, covered in driftwood (which the boys love) and nearly always empty, even in the height of summer.  I think the mile-long hike out to the shore limits the number of visitors, though for our boys that’s part of the fun as the path winds through varied terrain and abounds with snakes and lizards (keep an eye out for rattlers!).  And the walk is well worth it.

Park at the trail-head for a $10 fee  (although it’s free if you are camping at a local state park) or park on highway 1 for free and hike in. Bring an ergo or backpack for very small children.

 

Tips

A handy wind-break

The beach itself is fairly windy, so dress accordingly.  There are some awesome driftwood ‘wind-break’ structures to shelter behind however.

Go at low tide and there are rock pools to explore and rocks for scrambling along at the mouth of the Big Sur.

An inner-tube would be fun to ride the Big Sur out to the Pacific.

If you like riding, there are stables nearby offering pony treks along the shore.

There is a campground near the beach that we haven’t yet tried, but which seems to be popular. It’s first come, first served and you’re advised to arrive early friday morning to secure a site for the weekend. All sites are ‘walk-in’ but the campsite does have some very basic amenities, though not much shade or shelter.

The view south

Accidental Genius

I love it when I’m reminded how much camping with kids is a process of trial and error, prepare as one might.  Last week in Target I grabbed a pack of ‘glow in the dark’ bracelets thinking they’d be fun for the two year olds to play with round the campfire.  The two year olds did indeed love them. But so did the parents – as we were able to easily track where the kids were and what they were doing as dusk fell. 

‘Glow in the dark’ bracelets have now made it onto our list of essential camp gear for tenting with toddlers!

 

“The greatest meeting of land and water in the world” (according to Francis McComas).

The early morning view south from the Sand Hill Trail

With two very small children we often find ourselves seeking the impossible – to hike rugged and spectacular landscapes that the boys can also enjoy from our backs or the trail without getting tired or bored.  Point Lobos seemed, however, on paper at least, to meet our needs.  The reserve covers a craggy, wooded coastline and offers fourteen relatively short trails to explore the headland, coves, and wildlife. 

 Our arrival was not auspicious however. It was a cold, blustery, and cloudy morning, the queue for the entrance was long, there were few parking spots available, the small people on board were starting to grumble, and, as the ranger station had run out of trail maps by the time we arrived, we were flying blind.  Determined to hike at all costs, we followed random roads until we found a parking place at Piney Woods and decided to take the nearest trail.

 

 

There were indeed plenty of sea lions at Sea Lion Point

Sea Lion Point

We found ourselves on the South Shore Trail heading to Sand Hill Cove and Sea Lion Cove. And it was indeed spectacular. Foggy. But spectacular. The frigid air was heavy with the sound of seal lions barking, and it wasn’t long before we spotted a group of them resting on the rocks much to the boys’ delight.

The trail to Sand Hill Cove was easy going and even wheelchair/stroller accessible. After that, the path became more interesting, winding around crags and requiring the occasional bit of scrambling on the way down to Sea Lion Cove.

 The boys loved the cove and occupied themselves watching the surf and sea lions, and throwing rocks into the sea.

On the way back up the sun came out and we saw Point Lobos at its best. The colour of the sea was incredible, and the water so clear that we could watch the sea lions playing in the kelp from the cliff top.

Sea Lion Cove

 The Take Home

Point Lobos, and the hike to Sea Lion Cove, makes an excellent half-day trip for families with toddlers. The trail was long enough to be worthwhile but short enough that the kids didn’t become restless. The path was easy-going for the most part, but included enough scrambling to make small boys happy, and there was sufficient flora and fauna to interest toddlers. Sea Lion Cove itself provides a satisfying ‘destination’ and our boys always require that we are walking to a specific place rather than just ‘hiking a trail.’

Towards Devil's Cauldron

Would we visit again?

Yes. In fact, we are already planning our next visit as we’d like to hike out to China Cove and Gibson Beach, and to try the North Shore Trail. But we would bring warmer clothes next time (it really was exposed, windy, and cold on the cliffs) and arrive earlier to ensure we could find parking near our chosen trail head.

Off into the sunset

The Big Sur running past our campsite

Rocks are such fun

We made our annual pilgrimage to Pfeiffer this weekend. It’s a gorgeous campground that quickly became a family favourite and regular summer ritual after we first visited in 2009.  Generally, we like to spend the summer exploring new parts of North California, but sometimes it’s nice to return to a beautiful and familiar spot, especially when it’s so particularly suited to camping with small children.

 

What makes this park so special?

It’s a beautifully, but unobstrusively, maintained state park  with some of the nicest campsites we’ve encountered.  Most of the plots are relatively large, and some are so secluded that you can forget you’re in a campground while still having the convenience of car camping and state park amenities (toilets, showers, running water, trash cans etc).

Location, Location, Location

Set in a sheltered valley on the Big Sur it has a wonderful, shallow river for kids to play in and lots of open forest space to explore. Plus there are beautiful beaches, pony-riding and hiking nearby. Lots to keep the kids occupied.

Things to be aware of when camping with kids

1. The dust. Pfeiffer in the summer is exceptionally dusty and small children will end up covered in dirt.  Luckily, there are coin operated showers on site and the Big Sur river to clean off in, but be sure to dress your kids in old clothes.

2. The individual campsites vary considerably in size, exposure and privacy.  Generally, the sites in the center of each loop are fairly open and sometimes quite noisy on the weekends.  If you like peace and seclusion, opt for one of the many sites on the edge of the campground or along the road.  While most of the sites are shaded, those in the direct vicinity of the campstore are very exposed and can get brutally hot during the day.  On the whole, however, the sites at Pfeiffer are significantly larger than those encountered at many state parks and can comfortably fit two families (although note there is an 8 person per site maximum).

3. Some sites sit on the banks of the Big Sur with direct access to the river. We loved this, but if you’re nervous about having your kids so close to the water, choose a site deeper in the woods. Incidentally, we’ve never had any trouble with mosquitos near the river, but it’s probably worth bringing some repellent if you react badly to bites.